tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88617226666402872742024-03-12T20:15:34.415-07:00Diary of a Cosmetic ScientistA deeper look at cosmetics and their ingredients from an industry insider's point of view.Cosmetic Scientisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02840279260997846057noreply@blogger.comBlogger2125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8861722666640287274.post-18324502052880791262011-07-25T10:49:00.000-07:002011-07-25T10:49:36.896-07:00The ingredients behind the stuff<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:HyphenationZone>21</w:HyphenationZone> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>FI</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:DontVertAlignCellWithSp/> <w:DontBreakConstrainedForcedTables/> <w:DontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Before I can start talking about individual cosmetic ingredients, it is important to talk about the system that goes behind the INCI-list first.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The first item on the list is always the one that is present the most in the product. Almost always this is water (aqua).<span> </span>Shower gels and shampoos for example can contain a very high percentage of water.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Anhydrous products however, like pressed powders and most lipsticks, will contain no water.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The INCI list is always arranged so that the ingredients are in descending order.<span> </span>But after concentrations of less than 1%, the ingredients can be arranged in any order. Most cosmetic companies use this to their advantage, placing the active ingredients that can be present at very low levels higher up the ingredient list. Thereby tricking the consumer into thinking that the wonderful miracle ingredient is present at a high concentration in the product. In reality some ingredients that are used in the product claims can be in a product at concentrations of even less than 0.01%.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">So lets take some very well-known products and deconstruct their INCI list:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream Skin Protectant</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Petrolatum</b><span> </span>- The common name for petrolatum is petroleum jelly (Vaseline).<span> </span>This is a petrochemical product, and is not sourced sustainably. Function: emollient, antistatic agent.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Lanolin</b> – This is a refined derivative of the sebaceous secretion of sheep. Basically sheep’s wool fat. Function: emollient, skin conditioning agent.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><span></span><b>Paraffinum Liquidum</b> – White mineral oil. This is also a petrochemical. Function: emollient, skin protecting.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Parfum</b> – Fragrance. A scent is often used to mask the underlying smell of the inde</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Salicylic Acid</b> – This ingredient is commonly used in anti-acne formulations. Function: antidandruff, preservative, skin conditioning.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><span></span><b>Propylparaben</b> -<span> </span>Paraben. Function: preservative.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Castor Oil</b> – Function: emollient.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Corn Oil</b> – Function: emollient.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Tocopherol</b> – Vitamin E. Function: skin conditioning, antioxidant.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>BHT</b> – Function: antioxidant.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><span></span><b>Iron Oxides</b> -<span> </span>Function: colourants.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">This is a very simple one phase formulation, that basically comprises of mineral oil, petroleum jelly and lanolin. The rest of the ingredients must be present at very low levels in the formulation, since a high level of Salicylic acid would alter the pH. Also, the maximum legally allowed concentration of propylparaben is 0.4%, so therefore the ingredients below propylparaben have to all be less than 1%.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t35/jkalliomaki/8hourcream.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t35/jkalliomaki/8hourcream.jpg" width="284" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">Yves Saint Laurent Touche Eclat Radiant Touch</span></b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Aqua</b> - Water.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Cyclomethicone </b>– A volatile silicone. This gives the product great skin-feel and also evaporates, making the formulation dry quicker on the skin. Cyclomethicone is controversial in the industry because it is not environmentally safe. Many greener companies do not use it all, but because of its incredible skin-feel it is unlikely that it will ever completely leave cosmetics. Function: emollient, solvent, viscosity controlling agent.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Glycerin</b> – This helps the formulation from drying out in the pen. Function: humectant.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><span></span><b>Talc</b> – This is the main ingredient in most pressed powders. It gives the formulation coverage and bulk. Function: opacifying, bulking.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Paraffinum Liquidum</b> - White mineral oil. A petrochemical. Function: emollient, skin protecting.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><span></span><b>Peg/ Ppg-18/18 Dimethicone</b> – Function: emulsifier.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><span></span><b>Magnesium Sulfate</b> – Function: bulking, viscosity controlling.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Trideceth-3</b> – Function: emulsifier.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Methicone</b> – This is another silicone, but one with less negative environmental issues than Cyclomethicone. This is also used in many formulations to give excellent skin-feel and spreadability. Function: emollient.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><b>Methylparaben</b> –<span> </span>Paraben. Function: preservative.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><span></span><b>Squalane</b> – Function: emollient, skin conditioning.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">May Contain: CI 7789, CI 77019, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499, CI 77007, CI 77510, CI 77742, CI 75470</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">These are all colour or pearlescent pigments, they give the product its hue and “light”.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">This is also a very simple silicone-in-water emulsion where the pearlescent and colour pigments give the effect of highlighting.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t35/jkalliomaki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_Touch_Eclat_julia_roitfeld_favorite_beauty_product.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t35/jkalliomaki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_Touch_Eclat_julia_roitfeld_favorite_beauty_product.jpg" width="149" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">So these two very expensive products actually have bery simple formulations and nothing special in the ingredient list. Makes one oneder, why do people pay so much for these?</span></div>Cosmetic Scientisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02840279260997846057noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8861722666640287274.post-36507316454112496582011-06-26T12:51:00.000-07:002011-06-26T12:51:03.452-07:00TestingThis is a test.<br />
Due to recent developments in my employment status, I have decided to start a blog.<br />
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I am a 27-year old Finn who loves makeup. I have a BSc (Hons) degree in Cosmetic Science from the London College of Fashion.<br />
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Here I plan to take a deeper look at the cosmetic industry, some of the myths behind "dangerous" ingredients as well as some recent new and exciting products.Cosmetic Scientisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02840279260997846057noreply@blogger.com0